Part II: First Print

Step 4: Configure the Printer Profile

First Launch Settings

OrcaSlicer is a fork of Bambu Studio. On first launch, it asks about Bambu-specific features:

  • Stealth Mode (stops telemetry to Bambu’s cloud) → Enable. You’re using a Creality printer — Bambu’s cloud is irrelevant.

  • Install Bambu proprietary plugins → Skip. These are for Bambu Lab printers only (cloud printing, AMS filament system).

  • Update to alpha/beta version → Skip. Stay on the stable release for reliable printing.

Printer Selection

  1. Select manufacturer: Creality

  2. Select printer: Creality Ender-3 V3 SE 0.4 nozzle

  3. Select filament: Creality Generic PLA

That’s it. The profile ships with correct settings:

Layer height

0.20 mm

Retraction

1.2 mm @ 40 mm/s

Max acceleration

2500 mm/s² (X/Y)

Print speed

Up to 250 mm/s

Filament Temperature Adjustment

The default profile prints PLA at 200°C. If your filament specifies a different range (check the spool label), adjust accordingly:

Standard PLA

190–210°C — use 200°C (default)

PLA Matte (1.75mm)

205–215°C — use 210°C (middle of range)

PLA Silk

200–220°C — use 210°C

PETG

230–250°C — use 240°C, bed 80°C

Change the nozzle temperature in OrcaSlicer’s filament settings before slicing. Bed temperature stays at 60°C for all PLA variants.

Do not use Bowden retraction values (4–7 mm). The Sprite direct drive uses 1.2 mm. Too much retraction causes heat creep and jams.

Step 5: Prepare the Printer

Do these steps before slicing or sending a print from OrcaSlicer.

5a: Load Filament

  1. Power on the printer

  2. From the LCD: Preheat  PLA — wait for nozzle to reach 200°C

  3. Feed the PLA filament into the top of the Sprite direct drive extruder

  4. From the LCD: Prepare  Move Axis  Extruder  +10mm — repeat until filament extrudes cleanly from the nozzle

  5. Wipe the nozzle tip with tweezers or a cloth

If filament doesn’t feed, check that the tension lever on the Sprite extruder is engaged and the filament path is clear.

5b: Level the Bed

The Ender-3 V3 SE has automatic bed leveling (CR Touch probe). Run it before your first print:

  1. From the LCD: Auto Home

  2. Then: Auto Level

  3. Wait for the probe to touch all points

  4. From the LCD: Store Settings

The auto-level mesh is stored in firmware. You only need to re-level after physically moving the printer or adjusting the Z-offset.

5c: Set Z-Offset

  1. Start with the nozzle at home position

  2. Use the LCD: Z-Offset adjustment

  3. Slide a piece of standard paper between the nozzle and bed

  4. Lower the nozzle until you feel slight drag on the paper — not gripping, not free

  5. Save the offset

5d: Clean the Build Plate

Wipe the PEI build plate with isopropyl alcohol (90%+). Finger oils destroy adhesion.

Clean the bed before every print. This is the single most common cause of first-layer failures.

Step 6: Download the 3DBenchy

The 3DBenchy is the universal first-print calibration model. It tests overhangs, bridging, stringing, dimensional accuracy, and surface quality — all in one small boat.

Download from the official GitHub repo (CreativeTools):

mkdir -p ~/3dprints/benchy && cd ~/3dprints/benchy
curl -Lo 3dbenchy.stl "https://raw.githubusercontent.com/CreativeTools/3DBenchy/master/Single-part/3DBenchy.stl"

Verify the download (~10.7 MB binary):

file 3dbenchy.stl
# Expected: 3dbenchy.stl: data
The Printables download URL redirects and delivers an XML page instead of the STL when fetched via curl. Use the GitHub URL above — it works reliably from the terminal.

Step 7: Slice and Print

Import the STL

  1. Open OrcaSlicer

  2. Drag 3dbenchy.stl onto the build plate — or use Ctrl+I

  3. The model auto-orients (flat bottom on the bed)

Slice Settings for First Print

Use the defaults from the Ender-3 V3 SE profile. For your first print, conservative is smart:

Quality preset

0.20mm Standard

Infill

15% (default)

Supports

None (Benchy doesn’t need them)

Adhesion

Skirt (default — not raft, not brim)

Click Slice plate (top right). Review the preview:

  • Check the estimated time (~45–60 minutes for a Benchy)

  • Scrub through layers to spot anything odd

  • Verify the first layer looks solid (no gaps)

Transfer to Printer

Option 1 — CLI via pronsole (recommended):

  1. Click Export G-code in OrcaSlicer → save to ~/3dprints/benchy/

  2. Preheat via picocom (see CLI Control section)

  3. Load and print via pronsole.py (see CLI Control section)

Option 2 — OrcaSlicer USB direct:

  1. Connect USB cable to printer and PC

  2. In OrcaSlicer: Print → select the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB0 or /dev/ender3v3se)

  3. Set baud rate to 115200

  4. Click Send

Option 3 — MicroSD card:

  1. Click Export G-code → save to the MicroSD card

  2. Insert card into printer

  3. Select file from the LCD menu

Step 8: First Layer — Watch It

The first layer determines whether the print succeeds or fails. Watch the entire first layer go down.

Table 1. What to look for
Sign Meaning Fix

Lines don’t stick

Nozzle too high

Lower Z-offset by 0.02 mm increments

Filament squishes flat / transparent

Nozzle too low

Raise Z-offset by 0.02 mm increments

Lines have even width, slight squish

Perfect

Let it run

Filament curls around nozzle

Bed not clean

Cancel, clean bed with 90% IPA
Clean the PEI build plate with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) before every print. Finger oils destroy adhesion.

Step 9: Post-Print

Once the Benchy finishes:

  1. Wait for the bed to cool to ~30°C — the print pops off a PEI plate almost by itself

  2. Inspect the Benchy against the reference:

Table 2. Benchy Calibration Checkpoints
Feature What to check

Hull (bottom)

Smooth first layer, no elephant’s foot

Chimney hole

Clean circle, no stringing across the top

Overhangs (bow)

Smooth curve, no drooping

Text on stern

"#3DBenchy" legible

Cabin roof

Flat, no pillowing (infill showing through)

Overall

No layer shifts, consistent layer lines